Exploring Florence, Italy
When you ask those of us who have been to Florence, you will get the same reaction nearly every time (cue huge smile and eyes lit up) “I LOVE Florence”!
Florence is the birth place of Renaissance, of fashion houses, and of some of the best pizza in the world… among so many other things. We were there nearly a week both to sight see there, as well as take some day trips. We wish we had spent a few more days.
The below information is a complete guide of the best places to stay, the top rated places to dine and drink, and all there is to see and do. We’ve also included transportation tips, as well as a summary of the history of this incredible city!
Time needed in this town: 1 week (especially with day trips)
Where to stay
Hotel Spadai
We chose to stay at Hotel Spadai due to its proximity to everything in the city center, as well as its rave reviews. We both agree that you can’t get any better than this hotel for the price, the amenities, and their breakfast (which, check out the video short to see their spread)!
Other Recommendations
Where to Dine & drink
Borgo San Jacopo
A Michelin-starred restaurant using carefully chosen Italian ingredients that turn into refined fish, meat and vegetable dishes. Sommelier, Salvatore Biscotti, is responsible for the excellent wine selection, which includes around a thousand different labels featuring renowned estates and small producers alike. It’s well worth booking one of the few romantic tables overlooking the Arno.
Caffé Gilli
The oldest café in Florence that opened in 1733.
Chic Nonna di Vito Mollica
A Michelin-starred restaurant serving culinary creations that focus on the sea and unusual combinations that come as a pleasant surprise.
Ciro & Sons
Antipasti, pasta & pizza, with vegan options, at a venerable, ornate trattoria with a terrace. They have the best gluten-free pizza in the world - something Blackbeard would NOT stop raving about (and still hasn’t).
Cuculia Ristorante
An inventive fusion of Italian & global cuisines in a stylish, understated space with books & art.
Da Garibardi
Traditional Italian with a generous gluten-free menu
Degusteria Italiana
Cozy eatery with a sophisticated ambiance specializing in cheeses, truffles & game.
Enoteca Pinchiorri
A three Michelin-starred restaurant serving artfully plated dishes, inspired by Tuscan tradition, plus a long wine list, in an old-world space.
Essenziale
As its name suggests, this restaurant has a young, minimalist ambience. Friendly welcome and service, plus innovative cuisine full of surprises. You’ll find your cutlery in a drawer in your table, in an interesting nod to household traditions of bygone days.
Gucci Giardino 25
Specializing in light bites and absolutely incredible/artful cocktails. It’s worth visiting their patio area to take in Florence during sunset.
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura
A Michelin-starred restaurant serving tasting menus, featuring imaginative variations on Italian classics in an opulently decorated space.
Gunè San Frediano
The chef at this small gastronomic restaurant serves cuisine which acts as a bridge between Basilicata and Tuscany, the two most significant regions in his life, resulting in creative, delicate and beautifully presented dishes.
Il Vezzo
Traditional Florentine steak & pasta in an intimate space with a covered courtyard.
Io Osteria Personale
Elevated, elegantly plated Italian cuisine in a minimalist, contemporary venue with rustic touches.
La Buchetta
A traditional menu is matched by an extensive wine list at this cozy, old-timey bistro.
La Fettunta
Tuscan classics like Florentine steak & pasta dishes in a rustic, wood-accented space.
La Leggenda dei Frati
Innovative takes on classic Italian cuisine in an elegant dining room & on a patio with city views.
L'Insolita Trattoria Tre Soldi
A long-established trattoria opened by a married couple in the 1950s and now run by their son Lorenzo who serves highly personalised cuisine with a focus on local ingredients. The dishes have amusing and entertaining names such as “Amici per la pelle” (“Friends for life”), “Non è un pomodoro” (“This isn’t a tomato”), and “Solo un chicco di caffè” (“Just one coffee bean”).
Locale
Creative Tuscan dining & inventive cocktails in a 1500s palazzo with a 13th-century basement. Check out our incredible experience there - these guys deserve a Michelin star!
Ristorante Lorenzo de’ Medici
Charming, elegant restaurant featuring classic Tuscan dishes, as well as gluten-free options. We were so happy with the gluten-free options that we came back three times!
L’Ortone
Chic setting for steak & pasta dishes, with wooden accents & exposed brick, plus patio seating.
L'Osteria di Giovanni
Bruschetta, steaks & pastas with wine in a cozy osteria with vintage furniture & a vaulted cellar.
Nugolo
Serving seasonal ingredients to create contemporary-style dishes with an imaginative twist.
Osteria Bella Donne
Florentine steaks & classic Tuscan dishes, plus fine wines, at a colorful rustic inn with a terrace. NOTE: They also have a wine window!
We enjoyed our meal there as they have a lot of gluten-free options!
Ora d’Aria
Refined modern Tuscan cuisine, themed tasting menus & wine pairings in an intimate dining room.
Osteria dell'Enoteca
Traditional Florentine dishes
Osteria dello Sgrano
Dedicated gluten-free restaurant
Osteria Vecchio Cancello
Traditional Florentine dishes
Ristorante del Fagioli
Serving Tuscan cuisine, including a wide selection of meat dishes and grills.
Santa Elisabetta
Thought to date back to Byzantine times, the Torre della Pagliazza has had many uses over the centuries, including housing a women’s prison in the 12C. Today it is home to a two Michelin-starred restaurant, where chef Rocco De Santis creates imaginative Mediterranean cuisine.
Sgrano
Dedicated gluten-free Italian restaurant
Trattoria Gargani
A small, historic trattoria serving authentic Italian, with a beautiful view of the Arno,
What to see & Do
Day Trips
Cinque Terre With Optional Hiking
Experience the UNESCO-listed Cinque Terre in one day with a guided tour through the five idyllic fishing villages of old-world Italy. Following the walking trails along the cliffs of the national park, you will see glorious views of this unspoiled stretch of the Italian Riviera. Check out the highlights and learn about the area as you complete a 3.4-mile (5.5-km) route with your guide. If you choose the tour option without hiking, the train will be used instead to move between villages.
Siena, San Gimignano, Pisa and Lunch at a Winery
Art, history, countryside, food. Tuscany has it all. If you only have one day free, venture into Tuscany on this day trip from Florence and discover the region's highlights with a local guide. Explore the medieval city of Siena and its cathedral before heading to the hills of Chianti for a 3-course Tuscan lunch and wine tasting. Roam the streets of San Gimignano, and travel to Pisa to admire the architectural drama of Cathedral Square—home to the UNESCO-listed Leaning Tower of Pisa. Upgrade to include skip-the-line entry, if you wish.
See siena On Your Own
Click the link above to see what Siena is all about, as well as start planning your own day there.
Tuscan Wine & Cheese Tasting
Get a true taste of Italy's famous Chianti region on this full-day wine and food tour departing from Florence. Led by a guide, travel through the Tuscan hills by a 4x4 off-road vehicle, stopping to visit a wine estate and historic villa, and a cellar specializing in bottles of Chianti Classico. Sample the finest specialties at each stop, and save room for a 3-course meal in the Chianti countryside before making the return trip to Florence.
historical tours
Bargello National Museum
Construction began in 1255 on the palace that was built to first house the Capitano del Popolo and later, in 1261, the 'podestà' - the highest magistrate of the Florence City Council. It is the oldest public building in Florence. In 1574, the Medici family shifted the use of the palace, making it the police chief headquarters of Florence (until 1859). Interestingly, it was also used as a prison - executions took place in the Bargello's yard until they were abolished by Grand Duke Peter Leopold in 1786. In 1859, when Leopold II was exiled, the makeshift Governor of Tuscany decided that the Bargello should no longer be a jail, but a national museum, which opened in 1865. It displays the largest Italian collection of gothic and Renaissance sculptures in the world.
By far, this was our favorite museum in Florence, beating out Uffizi by a mile. The curator of the museum did a fantastic job with creating collections for each room - from statues, to everyday artifacts, to all the war gear one could imagine.
Palazzo Vecchio
In 1299, the commune and people of Florence decided to build a palace that would be worthy of the city's importance, and that would be more secure and defendable in times of turbulence. Arnolfo di Cambio, the architect of the Duomo and the Santa Croce church, began construction upon the ruins of Palazzo dei Fanti and Palazzo dell'Esecutore di Giustizia, once owned by the Uberti family.
The solid, massive building is enhanced by the simple tower with its clock. This tower contains two small cells, that, at different times, imprisoned Cosimo de' Medici (the Elder) (1435) and Girolamo Savonarola (1498). The tower's large, one-handed clock was originally constructed in 1353, but was replaced in 1667 with a replica.
Duke Cosimo I de' Medici (later to become grand duke) moved his official seat from the Medici palazzo in via Larga to the Palazzo della Signoria in May 1540, signalling the security of Medici power in Florence. When Cosimo later moved to Palazzo Pitti, he officially renamed his former palace to the Palazzo Vecchio, the "Old Palace".
The palace gained new importance as the seat of united Italy's provisional government, from 1865 to 1871, at a moment when Florence had become the temporary capital of the Kingdom of Italy. Although most of the Palazzo Vecchio is now a museum, it remains as the symbol and center of local government, as since 1872, it’s housed the office of the mayor of Florence, and it is the seat of the City Council.
Fun fact: Michelangelo's “David” stood at the entrance from the palazzo’s completion in 1504, to 1873, when it was moved to the Accademia Gallery. A replica, erected in 1910, now stands in its place.
Want a guided tour? Click here.
Riccardi Medici Palace
The Palazzo Medici Riccardi was built after the defeat of the Milanese when Cosimo de Medici had more governmental power. He was able to acquire property from his neighbors in order to begin the building of the palazzo. Unlike other wealthy families however, Cosimo wanted to start fresh and cleared the site before he began building. During this time, there was also a concern over sumptuary laws which affected how much wealth one could display or how to display wealth without displaying wealth. Cosimo agreed with this law and believed in this ideal possibly because of his status within the Signoria of Florence. As Pater Patriae, Cosimo was able to find ways around it through building materials and the idea of having the exterior of the building simpler and modest while the inside was more decorated. It was larger than other palazzi but its more modest design made it less noticeable. Yet, Cosimo's attempts at modesty didn’t help later on when the Medici family was scrutinized for their political power. Accused of spending money that was not his, Cosimo's house became part of arguments claiming that the Medicis built the Palazzo with money that was not theirs.
The palace remained the principal residence of the Medici family until the exile of Piero de Medici in 1494. Following their return to power, the palace continued to be used by the Medici family until 1540 when Cosimo I moved his principal residence to the Palazzo Vecchio. The Palazzo Medici continued to be used as a residence for younger family members until it was sold to the Riccardi family in 1659. The Riccardi family renovated the palace and commissioned the magnificent gallery, frescoed with the Apotheosis of the Medici by Luca Giordano. They sold the palace to the Tuscan state in 1814 and in 1874, the building became the seat of the provincial government of Florence.
TIP: Upstairs, in the Piano Nobile, hides one of the most precious hidden gems in Florence — the Chapel of the Magi. It’s accessible, via a stairway, from the courtyard, which is how you enter.
religious tours
Basilica di San Lorenzo
The Basilica of San Lorenzo is considered a milestone in the development of Renaissance architecture, though it has a complicated building history. The project was begun around 1419, under the direction of Filippo Brunelleschi. Lack of funds slowed the construction and forced changes to the original design. By the early 1440s, only its sacristy (now called the Old Sacristy) had been worked on because that was being paid for by the Medici family. In 1442, the Medici stepped in to take over financial responsibility of the church as well. The building was largely completed by 1459 in time for a visit to Florence by Pope Pius II - the chapels along the right-hand aisles were still under construction during the 1480s and 1490s.
The most celebrated and grandest part of San Lorenzo is the Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels) in the apse. The Medici family were still paying for it when, in 1743, the last living member of the family, Anna Maria Luisa de' Medici, died. In 1742, she had commissioned Vincenzo Meucci to paint the Glory of Florentine Saints, a fresco, inside the cupola. Approximately 50 lesser members of the Medici family are buried in the crypt.
Fun fact: In 1976, a concealed corridor with drawings by Michelangelo on its walls was discovered under the New Sacristy. It is closed to the public to preserve the graffiti. To learn more about the history as to why he did this, click here.
Basilica di San Marco
The present convent occupies the site where a Sylvestrine monastery existed in the 13th century, which later passed to the Sylvestrine monks. The church was used both for monastic liturgical functions and as a parish church.
In 1418, the Sylvestrines were accused of laxity in their observance of the Rule, and were pressured to leave, but it took a direct intervention of Pope Eugene IV and the Council of Basel before they vacated in 1437. Dominican friars took over the San Marco buildings, which were in a poor condition, and for two years or so, were obliged to live in damp cells or wooden huts. They appealed to Cosimo de' Medici the Elder, who lived nearby in the family palace, now known as the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, to fund the renovation of the entire complex. By 1438, the work was well underway and the final dedication took place on Epiphany night, in 1443.
The Church
The church has a single nave with side chapels designed in the late 16th century, and houses paintings from the 16th–17th centuries. In the late 17th century, the tribune and the carved ceiling were also realized. A further renovation was carried on in 1678, and the façade was built in 1777–1778.
Among the artworks, the most ancient is a 14th-century crucifix in the counter-façade. Over the first altar, to the right, is St. Thomas Praying (1593_, while over the second altar is a Madonna with Saints.
Giambologna completed the Cappella di Sant'Antonino (also known as Salviati Chapel) in May 1589. The Salviati family had been linked by marriage to the Medici family. The interior was decorated in fresco with a Translation and Funeral of St. Antonino Perozzi.
The Convent
The work for the convent was planned according to arrangements that took account of simplicity and practicality, but were of great elegance. The internal walls were covered in white washed plaster, a layout was centered on two cloisters (named after Saint Antoninus and Saint Dominic), with the usual conventual features of a chapter house: Two refectories and guest quarters on the ground level; and friars’ cells on the second. The cloisters, chapter house and dorters (dormitories) were finished by 1440–1441. The South dormitory, which overlooks Piazza San Marco, was completed in 1442. Work on the rest of the convent went on until 1452.
In 1808, during the Napoleonic Wars, the convent was stripped from the Dominicans, and again in 1866, when it became a possession of the state.
Until recently, San Marco still housed a community of Dominican friars, who occupied the Western part of the complex adjacent to the larger cloister. In 2014 the few friars remaining were transferred to join the community at Santa Maria Novella in the city.
The convent is now home to the Museo Nazionale di San Marco.
TIP: Make sure not to miss the 550 year-old mummified relic of St. Antoninus.
Basilica of Santa Croce
The basilica is the largest Franciscan church in the world. Its most notable features are its 16 chapels, many of them decorated with frescoes by Giotto and his pupils, and its tombs and cenotaphs. Legend says that Santa Croce was founded by St Francis himself.
The construction of the current church was begun on May 12, 1294, and paid for by some of the city's wealthiest families. It was consecrated in 1442 by Pope Eugene IV.
The Primo Chiostro houses the Cappella dei Pazzi, built as the chapter house, was completed in the 1470s. In 1560, the choir screen was removed as part of changes arising from the Counter-Reformation and the interior of this area was rebuilt (a lot of damage was done to the interior decor and artwork).
In 1842, the bell tower was built, replacing an earlier one damaged by lightning. The neo-Gothic marble façade dates from 1857 to 1863. The Jewish architect, Niccolo Matas, designed the church's façade, working a prominent Star of David into the composition. Matas had wanted to be buried with his peers but because he was Jewish, he was buried under the threshold and honored with an inscription.
In 1866, the complex became public property, which is also around the time restorations began, which included the 16th-century altars and plaster removed from the Bardi Chapel, revealing Giotto's frescoes of the Life of St Francis, which include the Death of St. Francis.
In 1940, during the safe hiding of various works during World War II, Ugo Procacci noticed the Badia Polyptych being carried out of the church. He reasoned that this had been removed from the Badia Fiorentina during the Napoleonic occupation and accidentally reinstalled in Santa Croce. Between 1958 and 1961, Leonetto Tintori removed layers of whitewash and overpaint from Giotto's Peruzzi Chapel scenes to reveal his original work.
In 1966, the Arno River flooded much of Florence, including Santa Croce. The water entered the church bringing mud, pollution, and heating oil indoors. The damage to buildings and art treasures was severe, taking several decades to repair - this includes the painting of the Last Supper, which was completely restored and put back on display in 2016, which you will see in the video above.
Today, the former dormitory of the Franciscan friars houses the Scuola del Cuoio (Leather School). Visitors can watch as artisans craft purses, wallets, and other leather goods, which are sold in the adjacent shop.
FUN FACT: Both Machiavelli and Michelangelo are entombed in the basilica, which you will see in the video above.
Basilica of Santo Spirito
The first religious structure, which has long been replaced, dates back before 1252. Located outside the original city walls, it was surrounded by the Tuscan countryside, dotted with a few country-styled homes and was adorned with paintings by Cimabue, Simone Memmi, and Giottino. The Augustinian monks came onto the scene around this time, which would make this among the earliest Augustinian foundations still occupied by the monks.
Not long after the mid 1200's, Florence began to attract an influx of migrants. This steady flow of people, plus the construction of the Santa Trinita bridge, pushed the area to take on a decisive social, political, and intellectual importance. You can still see signs of this diversity if you spend some time in the Piazza Santo Spirito, located directly in front of the church.
Those in the government center of Florence recognized the need for more political influence in this area, so they decided to do a bit of “inverse" bribing. They set up a fund for the reconstruction of the church assuring a certain presence through religious influence.
The creation of an important church, especially like that of Santo Spirito, was not just a compilation of stone and mortar built in a cross-shaped floor plan with few chapels and an altar. The architectural design was part of the artwork, it was an integral part of both telling a story and setting the mood for the worshippers. In fact, it was the first thing a visitor to the church would encounter - therefore, the architect had to have not just a solid knowledge of numbers, proportions, and architectural canons; but also know the Bible, so they could interpret how the Word should be preached.
Michelangelo’s involvement
Michelangelo found refuge in the convent of Santo Spirito in 1492, at the age of seventeen, after the death of his patron Lorenzo il Magnifico. It was within the walls of Santo Spirito that the curious artist had the opportunity to analyze corpses from the convent's hospital to study the anatomy of the human body.
As a form of thank you, Michelangelo carved a highly realistic wooden sculpture, which hung over the main alter until the French occupation of the late 18th century and the suppression of the convent. At this point, the cross was recorded as lost… or so it was thought. It turns out, it had been moved to another chapel and painted to disguise its true origins. Upon the restoration to its original elegance, it went to the museum of Casa Buonarroti, where it remained until 2000 AD, then re-established in the sacristy of Santo Spirito.
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore
Santa Maria del Fiore was built on the site of Florence's second cathedral, dedicated to Saint Reparata (the first was the Basilica di San Lorenzo di Firenze, the first building of which was consecrated as a church in 393 by St. Ambrose of Milan). The ancient structure, founded in the early 5th century, was crumbling with age, and according to the 14th-century Nuova Cronica of Giovanni Villani, it was also no longer large enough to serve the growing population of the city.
City council approved the design for the new church in 1294, with the first stone laid on September 9, 1296, by Cardinal Valeriana - the first papal legate ever sent to Florence. The building of this vast project was to last 140 years, due mainly to the deaths of its appointed architects, as well as the Black Plague.
Work on the dome began in 1420 and finished in 1436, which is when the building was deemed complete. The cathedral was consecrated by Pope Eugene IV on March 25, 1436, (the first day of the year according to the Florentine calendar). It was the first octagonal dome in history to be built without a temporary wooden supporting frame.
Astronomical ties
In 1475, the Italian astronomer, Paolo dal Pozzo Toscanelli (who was also a mathematical tutor of Brunelleschi), pierced a hole in the dome at 298.7 ft. above the pavement to create a meridian line. The height precluded the installation of a complete meridian line on the floor of the cathedral, but allowed a short section of approximately 33 ft. to run between the main altar and the north wall of the transept. This allowed observation for around 35 days on either side of the summer solstice. However, due to settlement in the building and fluctuating outside temperatures, the meridian line had limited astronomical value and fell into disuse until it was restored in 1755.
The meridian line was covered over in 1894 and unveiled again in 1997. A yearly reenactment of the observation takes place on June 21st each year at 12.00 UT.
TIP: The entry is free HOWEVER you will be waiting in line for a while. Our suggestion, get there 1 hour before opening to ensure first entry. We’ll also say this - it’s unimpressive inside. If long lines don’t interest you, then enjoy the facade and go to the many other more wonderful basilicas around Florence!'
Want to climb the Duomo? Click here for skip-the-line tickets!
Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore
The present church was built under Pope Celestine I, who consecrated the basilica on the August 5, 434 AD to the Virgin Mary, just a few years after the Council of Ephesus proclaimed Mary the Mother of God, in 431 AD.
Despite several additional construction projects and damage by the earthquake of 1348, the church retains the core of its original structure. The magnificent mosaics of the nave and triumphal arch, seen as "milestones in the depiction" of the Virgin, depict scenes of her life and that of Christ, but also scenes from the Old Testament: Moses striking the Red Sea, and Egyptians drowning in the Red Sea.
Gregory the Great may have been inspired by Byzantine devotions to the Theotokos (Mother of God) when after becoming Pope during a plague in 590 AD, ordered seven processions to march through the city of Rome chanting Psalms in order to appease the wrath of God. The processions began in different parts of the city, but rather than finally converging on St Peter's, who was always the traditional protector of Rome, he instead ordered the processions to converge on Mary Major instead.
When the popes returned to Rome after the period of the Avignon papacy, the buildings of the basilica became a temporary Palace of the Popes, due to the deteriorated state of the Lateran Palace. The papal residence was later moved to the Palace of the Vatican in what is now Vatican City.
The basilica was restored, redecorated and extended by various popes, including Eugene III (1145–1153), Nicholas IV (1288–92), Clement X (1670–76), and Benedict XIV (1740–58), who in the 1740s commissioned Ferdinando Fuga to build the present façade and to modify the interior. The interior of the Santa Maria Maggiore underwent a broad renovation encompassing all of its altars between the years 1575 and 1630.
Look for La Berta
According to legend, this disembodied head, dubbed “La Berta,” has been sticking out of the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore in Florence since medieval times. The most common bit of lore around it says the head belongs to a woman who was petrified on September 16, 1326. According to this tale, the woman was a victim of Cecco d’Ascoli, an astrologer who was on his way to be burned at the stake for heresy. As he was carried in a procession along Via dei Cerretani, he stopped to ask for some water. Little did he know that looking out a church window was Berta, who told everyone watching to deny him a drink. Berta claimed the man was an alchemist who could communicate with the devil using water, and that the devil himself would grant him immunity. D’Ascoli, furious, cast a curse on Berta, preventing her from ever moving.
There are, however, more practical theories behind the head’s appearance. One theory says the head is a memorial to the greengrocer who donated bells to the church so they could chime whenever the city gates would open or close. This would explain why it sticks out the bell tower wall, and not a window.
Some historians also claim Berta is no more than the head of an old Roman sculpture, for the remnants of such would be commonly used as decoration in the Middle Ages. This theory is probably the most believable, and yet, locals still tell legends of dark magic and curses to the few passersby who notice Berta.
Church of Santa Maria Novella
This church was called S. Maria Novella ('New') because it was built on the site of the 9th-century oratory of Santa Maria delle Vigne. When the site was assigned to the Dominican Order in 1221, they decided to build a new church and adjoining cloister. The church was designed by two Dominican friars, and began construction in 1276. It lasted 80 years, with the completion of the Romanesque-Gothic bell tower and sacristy. In 1360, a series of Gothic arcades were added to the façade, as these were intended to contain sarcophagi. The church was consecrated in 1420.
Giotto’s Campanile
Many people believe that Giotto’s Campanile is connected to the Duomo however, it is a separate building in its own right. Split into five distinct levels, the exterior of the tower features polychrome marble decoration that is also present on the Duomo in brilliant green and pink colours.
Constructed in 1334 through to 1359, the building was designed by the famous artist Giotto, but finished by Talenti who added the last levels after Giotto died 1343. A plethora of sculptures, artwork and decorated panels cover the tower and it is a true masterpiece of Renaissance art.
TIP: You can climb the 414 steps in the tower for fantastic views of Florence and the Duomo.
San Miniato al Monte
St. Miniato was an Armenian prince serving in the Roman army, under Emperor Decius. He was denounced as a Christian after becoming a hermit and was brought before the Emperor, who was camped outside the gates of Florence. The Emperor ordered him to be thrown to beasts in the amphitheatre where a panther was called upon him, but refused to devour him. Beheaded in the presence of the Emperor, he is alleged to have picked up his head, crossed the Arno, and walked up the hill of Mons Fiorentinus to his hermitage. A shrine was later erected at this spot and there was a chapel there in the 8th century. Construction of the present church was begun in 1013, by Bishop Alibrando, and it was endowed by the Emperor Henry II. The adjoining monastery began as a Benedictine community, then passed to the Cluniacs. In 1373, it was then passed to the Olivetans, who still run it.
Fun fact: The monks produce famous liqueurs, honey, and herbal teas, which they sell from a shop next to the church.
The Baptistery of St. John
The Baptistery of Saint John is a minor basilica. The octagonal baptistery stands in both the Piazza del Duomo and the Piazza San Giovanni, across from Florence Cathedral and the Campanile di Giotto.
It was once believed that the Baptistery was originally a Roman temple dedicated to Mars, the tutelary god of the old Florence. Excavations in the 20th century have shown that there was a 1st-century Roman wall running through the piazza with the Baptistery, which may have been built on the remains of a Roman guard tower on the corner of this wall, or possibly another Roman building including a 2nd century house which was restored in the late 4th or early 5th century. It was also discovered that an octagonal baptistery was erected there in the late 4th or early 5th century, and was replaced or altered with another early Christian baptistery in the 6th century.
The earlier baptistery was the city's second basilica after San Lorenzo, outside the northern city wall, and predates the church Santa Reparata. It was first recorded as such on March 4, 897, when the Count Palatine and envoy of the Holy Roman Emperor sat there to administer justice. The granite pilasters were taken from the Roman forum sited at the location of the present Piazza della Repubblica. At that time, the baptistery was surrounded by a cemetery with Roman sarcophagi, used by important Florentine families as tombs (now in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo).
The present, much bigger Baptistery was built in Romanesque style around 1059, evidence of the growing economic and political importance of Florence. It was reconsecrated on November 6, 1059 by Pope Nicholas II. According to legend, the marbles were brought from Fiesole, conquered by Florence in 1078. Other marble came from ancient structures. The construction was finished in 1128.
An octagonal lantern was added to the pavilion roof around 1150. It was enlarged with a rectangular entrance porch in 1202, leading into the original western entrance of the building, that in the 15th century became an apse.
Between the 14th and 16th centuries, three bronze double doors were added, with bronze and marble statues above them. This gives an indication that the Baptistery, at that time, was at least equal to the neighboring cathedral in importance.
Up to 1935, the Baptistery was the only place where Florentines were baptized.
TIP: Check to see if they are doing renovations before you go. Unfortunately, there was nothing to really see when we were there. Also, women must be covered neck to ankle.
The arts & Sciences
Accademia Gallery
The Galleria dell'Accademia was founded in 1784 by Pietro Leopoldo, Grand Duke of Tuscany. It is best known as the home of Michelangelo's sculpture, “David”. It also has other sculptures by Michelangelo and a large collection of paintings by Florentine artists, mostly from the period 1300–1600 AD.
Want to skip the line and get a private tour? Click here.
Galileo Museum
Museo Galileo is located in Piazza dei Giudici, along the River Arno, and close to the Uffizi Gallery. The museum, dedicated to astronomer and scientist Galileo Galilei, is housed in Palazzo Castellani, an 11th-century building which was then known as the Castello d'Altafronte.
The museum features the valuable scientific instruments from the Medici Collections which were first displayed in the Stanzino delle Matematiche (Mathematics Room) in the Uffizi Gallery. They were later moved to the Museo di Fisica e Storia Naturale (Museum of Physics and Natural History), founded by Grand Duke Peter Leopold in 1775. During the reign of the Lorraine Grand Dukes, new instruments were added to the scientific collections. In 1929, the First Italian Exhibition of the History of Science in Florence highlighted the importance of scientific collections within Italy's cultural heritage. As a consequence, in 1930, the University of Florence gave birth to the Istituto di Storia della Scienza con annesso Museo (Institute of the History of Science and attached Museum). The institute was housed in Palazzo Castellani and was entrusted with the instrument collections of the Medici and Lorraine dynasties. The permanent exhibition is arranged by chronological and thematic paths.
Gucci Museum and Garden
In 2011, the Gucci museum opened on the 90th anniversary of the fashion house, and charts the evolution from its start—right here in Florence—to the enormous international brand it is today. Also onsite is the new Gucci Garden, the brainchild of Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele, with a store, exhibition rooms, and a restaurant with world's best Massimo Bottura (3 Michelin-starred chef) at the helm. The museum complex—effectively, a Gucci wonderland—is in the Palazzo della Mercanzia, which was built in 1359 and restored in 1905. Rather interestingly, the historic structure once housed the Court that served to resolve disputes between merchants and members of Florentine arts guilds.
Down the street, on Via de’ Tornabuoni, is their flagship store they opened in 1929. It is worth checking out as it’s three levels of amazing clothes, shoes, handbags, and accessories - all displayed as though it’s an art exhibit.
Loggia dei Lanzi
The name Loggia dei Lanzi dates back to the reign of Grand Duke Cosimo I, when it was used to house his formidable landsknechts (German mercenary pikemen). It was built between 1376 and 1382 by Benci di Cione and Simone di Francesco Talenti, to house the assemblies of the people and hold public ceremonies, such as the swearing into office of the Gonfaloniers and the Priors.
Starting from the 1500’s, for wanting of the de’ Medici family, and with the birth of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, the Loggia was destined to receive some masterpieces of the sculpture, becoming one of the first open-air sculpture gallery spaces in the world.
Two marble sculptures of lions, the Marzoccos, heraldic symbols of Florence, guard this precious house of art. The one on the right dates from Roman times, the one on the left was sculpted by Flaminio Vacca in 1598, and was originally placed in the Villa Medici in Rome and in the Loggia in 1789.
The tradition of setting up statues in the loggia started in 1494 when the Florentines expelled the Medici, who had ruled over the city for more than 150 years.
To celebrate the revolt against their former rulers, Florentine citizens transported Donatello’s statue of Judith and Holofernes from the palace of the Medici, to the piazza in front of the Palazzo Vecchio. The choice of the statue was no coincidence: it depicts a woman decapitating a tyrant and symbolized the end of the reign of the Medici.
The house of Medici soon regained its power in Florence, and duke Cosimo I commissioned Benvenuto Cellini to create a sculpture depicting the mythical hero, Perseus, after he beheaded Medusa. It took nine years to be cast, and was supposed to represent the death of the republican institutions, through the swift cutting off of Medusa’s head, and the end of civil strife, as symbolized by the snakes. After its completion in 1554, Cellini positioned this statue so as to look down upon the audience, as if to capture its attention.
In 1583, once construction of the Uffizi palace was finished, Bernardo Buontalenti built a terrace on top of the Loggia, from which the Medici princes could watch ceremonies in the square terrace, which today belongs to the bar of the Uffizi museum.
FUN FACT: There appears to be a human face on the back of Perseus’s head. This is thought to be Cellini’s self-portrait. Can you spot it, below?
Piazzale Michelangelo
This Florentine piazza was designed by architect Giuseppe Poggi and built in 1869, on a hill just south of the historic center, during the redevelopment of the left bank of the Arno river. Lungarni (riverside walkways) were built on the riversides and on the right bank, the 14th century city walls were removed and turned into the Viali di Circonvallazione, mimicking the French "boulevard" design (six lanes wide and lined with trees). Also on the left bank, winding up the hill of San Miniato the Viale dei Colli, a tree-lined street (over 8 km long) was built, ending at the Piazzale Michelangelo, which was built as a terrace with a panoramic view of the city.
The square, dedicated to the Renaissance sculptor Michelangelo, has bronze copies of some of his marble works found elsewhere in Florence: The David and the four allegories of the Medici Chapel of San Lorenzo, which required nine pairs of oxen to haul on June 25, 1873.
Poggi designed the loggia in the neoclassical-style that dominates the whole terrace, which today houses a restaurant (it was originally intended to house a museum of works by Michelangelo, never realized). In the wall of the balcony, under the loggia, there is an epigraph in capital letters referring to his work: Poggi turned this into his monument in 1911.
The view captures the heart of Florence from Forte Belvedere to Santa Croce, across the lungarni and the bridges crossing the Arno, including the Ponte Vecchio, the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, the Bargello, and the octagonal bell tower of the Badia Fiorentina. Beyond the city, are the hills of Settignano and Fiesole.
The Piazzale Michelangelo can be accessed by car along the tree-lined Viale Michelangelo, constructed at the same time, or by walking the stairs, or going up the ramps from the Piazza Giuseppe Poggi (the "Poggi Ramps") in the district of San Niccolò.
Uffizi Gallery
The building of the Uffizi (Offices) complex was begun in 1560 for Cosimo I de' Medici as a means to consolidate his administrative control of the various committees, agencies, and guilds so as to have them all one place. It was completed in 1581 and included a statue gallery for the family and their guests, on the top floor.
The Uffizi brought together the administrative offices and the Archivio di Stato (the state archive) under one roof. The project was intended to display prime works of art of the Medici collections on the piano nobile, which included a series of masterpieces in one room (including jewels). It became a highly influential attraction of a Grand Tour and was completed in 1584.
Over the years, more sections of the palace were used to exhibit paintings and sculptures collected or commissioned by the Medici family. For many years, 45 to 50 rooms were used to display paintings from the 13th to 18th century.
Because of its huge collection, a project was finished in 2006 to expand the museum's exhibition space some 64,000 sq. ft. to almost 139,000 sq, ft., allowing public viewing of many artworks that had usually been in storage.
Want to skip the line and get a guided tour? Click here.
unique experiences
BABAE WINE WINDOW
In 1559, Cosimo de’ Medici decreed that noble families could sell the wine from their vineyards directly out of their palaces. Anyone on the street could knock on the windows, built into the façades, to indicate they wanted to purchase wine. A servant would take the customer’s empty bottle and their payment, refill the bottle down in the cellar, and hand it back out to the street. Naturally, as palaces were converted to other uses, the wine windows became obsolete.
However, in 2020, Babae brought the wine window back into operation to help practice social distancing while also giving people something to do.
The wine window is open all day except for Mondays. In the evening, from 7-8pm, they host their “L’ora della Buchetta,” where they serve glasses of their wine by handing it out to the street.
TIP: Read the entire board of instructions. Ring the little maple leaf-shaped bell and wait to give your order.
Carousel at Piazza della Repubblica
On the Piazza della Repubblica, is an early 20th century carousel with 20 horses and two gilded “king’s carriages”, owned and operated by generations of the Picci family. Currently, it’s run by Carlo Picci, who represents the 4th generation of the family to run a carousel (the 5th generation is also doing so, and the 6th is still at the stage of riding carousels more than running them).
Fontana del Porcellino
Il Porcellino ("piglet") is the local Florentine nickname for the bronze fountain of a boar. The fountain figure was sculpted and cast by Baroque master, Pietro Tacca, shortly before 1634. The original, which was found in Rome and moved to Florence in the mid-16th century by the Medici family, was associated from the time of its rediscovery with the Calydonian Boar of Greek myth.
Tacca's bronze, which has eclipsed the Roman marble that served as a model, was originally intended for the Boboli Garden, then moved to the Mercato Nuovo in Florence. It was placed originally facing east, in via Calimala, in front of the pharmacy that, by association, gained the name “Farmacia del Cinghiale” ("pharmacy of the boar"). To gain more space for market traffic, it was later moved to the side facing south, where it still stands. The present statue is a modern copy, cast in 1998 and replaced in 2008, while Tacca's bronze is sheltered in the new Museo Stefano Bardini in Palazzo Mozzi.
FUN FACT: The statue is briefly seen in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets (2002) as Harry Potter and Ron Weasley climb the Hogwarts staircase after crashing into the Whomping Willow. It’s also seen again on the same staircase during the flashback scene where Tom Riddle speaks to Albus Dumbledore. Finally, it also appears in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows –Part 2 (2011) in the Room of Requirement.
TIP: Visitors to Il Porcellino put a coin into the boar's gaping jaws, with the intent to let it fall through the underlying grating for good luck, and they rub the boar's snout to ensure a return to Florence, a tradition that the Scottish literary traveller, Tobias Smollett, already noted in 1766.
Our Experience: If you look up other pictures, it looks like a clean, beautiful square, but it’s actually littered with more street vendors. However, this statue is in front of the steps, so it’s easily accessible. We tried the coin bit, and 2.23 euros later, it looks like we’re not getting the rare luck - it’s difficult!
L’importuno di Michelangelo
Michelangelo was a vandal! There’s a little piece of street art of a graffiti- like carving etched into a single stone of the Palazzo Vecchio, near the Uffizi Gallery. It’s a simple almost caricature outline of a man’s face. It’s unclear why Michelangelo may have carved the piece, though one story holds that it’s the face of a man who bored Michelangelo in conversation on a daily basis.
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
1221 AD - The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella can trace its roots back to the Florence of 1221. In that year, Dominican friars founded the convent of Santa Maria Novella, and began to cultivate - among other things - a garden. From that same garden, many centuries of experience in pharmacopoeia and natural preparations began to develop. And in later years, that experience would expand to include the worlds of cosmetics, fragrances and wellness products.
1381 AD - The first evidence of the production of scented waters dates back to 1381. The decades of the Black Death were particularly hard for the afflicted populations, which is why the Dominican friars distilled Acqua di Rose (rose water), as it was used both to sanitize rooms and for personal care, taken with wine or in pills.
1533 AD - A very young Catherine de Medici left Florence to marry the future king of France. Among the pages, guards and ladies of her entourage she employed, she also asked for a perfumer - Renato Bianco. It was then the noble art of perfume spread throughout the world. It is also one of the oldest fragrances in production, in the world, today.
1542 AD- The first secular management of the convent pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella dates back to this year. The pharmacy's accounts became independent from those of the convent, and the doors of the pharmacy "officially" opened to the public.
1612 AD - The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica opened to the public and relatively independent from the convent. For another 2 1/2 centuries, however, the directors would continue to be Dominican friars. This is also the year the Sacristy of the Chapel of San Niccolò was converted into a storeroom. In it, were kept the aqueous products from the distillation of herbs and roses, called "waters" (hence, why it’s called, "The Room of Waters"). These distillates were stored in glass vials or copper containers, ready to be quickly sold to customers equipped with "pitchers" for decanting - a custom that remained in use until the end of the 19th century. For a longer shelf life, glass flasks covered with straw were used to protect them from impacts.
1774 AD - Friar Cosimo Bucelli, an "aromatician" and ointment-maker, was an experimenter who loved to combine medicinal properties with pleasant scents. Author of the collection of cosmetic and pharmaceutical recipes entitled, “Secrets of the Foundry of His Royal Highness”, Bucelli also renovated the rooms of the Antica Spezieria and brought the products of the Officina to the attention of the world.
1847 AD - During a delicate period of Italian history, in 1847, Damiano Beni initiated the restoration of the former chapel of San Niccolò, transforming it into the current Great Sales Hall. The extensive renewal project, conceived by Friar Tommaso Valori, was only completed during the Italian Risorgimento by one of his successors, The Gothic vault was decorated with frescoes by Paolino Sarti, depicting the four continents. The wooden furnishings were in 14th century style, such as the long counter on which were positioned two bronze lamp holders, depicting female figures. Two wooden statues, also still present today, alluded to healthy living, with direct reference to the effectiveness of the Officina's products.
2014 AD - The Officina inaugurated its garden. There was a time when the friars carefully safeguarded their crops, within the high walls of the convent, cultivating them with passion in order to obtain excellent natural products. This method was called “Hortus Conclusus”. Each element of the garden had its own meaning, such as the fountain to symbolize the "source of life", and each component was there to stimulate the five senses. The Officina still cultivates its own garden near the Villa Petraia in Florence.
TIP: There are a few locations around Florence, so choose any one of them to visit. Each scent is centuries’ old with no alteration to their recipes (the year the scent began is on the box). As you can see above, I got a Vanilla scent that started being sold the year they opened stores to the public - 1221!
walking tours
Boboli Gardens
The Boboli Gardens are directly behind the Pitti Palace, and are some of the first and most familiar formal 16th-century Italian gardens in Florence. The mid-16th-century garden style, as it was developed here, incorporated longer axial developments, wide gravel avenues, a considerable "built" element of stone, the lavish employment of statuary and fountains, and a proliferation of detail, coordinated in semi-private and public spaces that were informed by classical accents: grottos, nympheums, garden temples and the like. The openness of the garden, with an expansive view of the city, was unconventional for its time. The gardens were very lavish, considering no access was allowed to anyone outside the immediate Medici family, and no entertainment or parties are ever known to have taken place in the gardens.
The gardens lack a natural water source. To water its plants, a conduit was built to feed water from the nearby Arno River into an elaborate irrigation system.
The primary axis, centered on the rear façade of the palace, rises on Boboli Hill from a deep amphitheater. At the center of it is the Ancient Egyptian Boboli obelisk brought from the Villa Medici at Rome. This primary axis terminates in a fountain of Neptune.
Giulio Parigi laid out the long secondary axis, the Viottolone or Cyprus Road at a right angle to the primary axis. This road led up through a series of terraces and water features, the main one being the Isolotto complex, with the bosquets on either side, and then allowed for exit from the gardens almost at Porta Romana, which was one of the main gates of the walled city. In 1617, Parigi constructed the Grotto of Vulcan (Grotticina di Vulcano) along this axis.
The gardens have passed through several stages of enlargement and restructuring work. They were enlarged in the 17th century to their present extent of 111 acres.
Today, visitors can walk the garden paths that the Medici family once did, and it is well worth it, though a lot of inclines (so, bring those walking shoes)!
Giardino Bardini
The Giardino Bardini is an Italian Renaissance garden of the Villa Bardini in the hilly part of Oltrarno, offering fine views of Florence. Opened only recently to the public, it is one of Florence's well kept secrets.
The garden is composed of three separate areas, each created in a different time period, which adds to the architectural and agricultural diversity. The park's center contains the grand staircase that was constructed in the 17th century. On one side of the staircase, you can find the Anglo-Chinese garden created in the 19th century. The other side of the staircase hosts the garden's agricultural park.
Mercato Centrale
The Mercato Centrale (Central Market) in Florence is located between via dell'Ariento, via Sant'Antonino, via Panicale, and Piazza del Mercato Centrale. It is one of the results from the time of “risanamento”, the period when Florence was the capital of Italy in the late 19th century.
Inside the market, vendors sell various primary ingredients of Tuscan cuisine. In the northern corner of the market, there is a seafood area in which vendors sell fish and shellfish. Fruits and vegetable stands, as well as nuts and spice stands can be found outside the market. Outside of the Central Market, is the Mercato di San Lorenzo, which mostly sells leather goods.
Palazzo Pitti
The construction of this palace was commissioned in 1458 by the Florentine banker, Luca Pitti, a principal supporter and friend of Cosimo de' Medici.
Though impressive, the original palazzo would have been no rival to the Florentine Medici residences, in terms of either size or content. Whoever the architect of the Palazzo Pitti was, he was moving against the contemporary flow of fashion. The rusticated stonework gives the palazzo a severe and powerful atmosphere, reinforced by the three-times-repeated series of seven arch-headed apertures, reminiscent of a Roman aqueduct. The Roman-style architecture appealed to the Florentine love of the new style all'antica. This original design has withstood the test of time: the repetitive formula of the façade was continued during the subsequent additions to the palazzo, and its influence can be seen in numerous 16th century imitations and 19th century revivals.
Work stopped after Pitti suffered financial losses following the death of Cosimo de' Medici in 1464. Luca Pitti died in 1472 with the building unfinished.
In 1549, the building was sold to Eleonora di Toledo. Raised at the luxurious court of Naples, Eleonora was the wife of Cosimo I de' Medici of Tuscany, later the Grand Duke. On moving into the palace, Cosimo had Vasari enlarge the structure to fit his tastes, which more than doubled the size of it with the addition of a new block along the rear. Vasari also built the Vasari Corridor - an above-ground walkway from Palazzo Vecchio, through the Uffizi, above the Ponte Vecchio, to the Palazzo Pitti. This enabled the Grand Duke and his family to move easily and safely from their official residence to the Palazzo Pitti.
Initially, the Palazzo Pitti was used mostly for lodging official guests and for occasional functions of the court, while the Medicis' principal residence remained the Palazzo Vecchio. It was not until the reign of Eleonora's son Francesco I and his wife, Johanna of Austria, that the palazzo was occupied on a permanent basis and became home to the Medicis' art collection.
Land on the Boboli hill, at the rear of the palazzo, was acquired in order to create a large formal park and gardens, today known as the Boboli Gardens (see above in this list for that reference).
Today, transformed from royal palace to museum, the Palazzo is in the hands of the Italian state, which is responsible for 250,000 cataloged works of art. In spite of its metamorphosis from royal residence to a state-owned public building, the palazzo still retains the air and atmosphere of a private collection in a grand house.
NOTE: The palace was closed for restoration, so we were unable to view it. However, check out the section on Boboli Gardens for what there is to see there (which is a lot).
Want a guided tour? Click here.
Ponte Vecchio
Built very close to the Roman crossing, the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) was the only bridge across the Arno in Florence until 1218. The current bridge was rebuilt after a flood in 1345. During World War II it was the only bridge across the Arno that the fleeing Germans did not destroy. Instead, they blocked access by demolishing the medieval buildings on each side. On November 4, 1966, the bridge miraculously withstood the tremendous weight of water and silt when the Arno once again burst its banks.
The Vasari Corridor was built in five months by order of Duke Cosimo I de' Medici in 1565, to the design of Giorgio Vasari. It was commissioned in connection with the marriage of Cosimo's son, Francesco, with Johanna of Austria. The idea of an enclosed passageway was motivated by the Grand Duke's desire to move freely between his residence and the government palace, when, like most monarchs of the period, he felt insecure in public, in his case especially because he had replaced the Republic of Florence. The meat market of Ponte Vecchio was moved to avoid its smell reaching into the passage, and its place taken by the goldsmith shops that still occupy the bridge. At the latter extremity, the corridor was forced to pass around the Mannelli Tower, after the staunch opposition of that family to its destruction.
In the middle of Ponte Vecchio, the corridor is characterized by a series of panoramic windows facing the Arno, in the direction of the Ponte Santa Trinita. In 1939, these replaced the original windows, by order of Benito Mussolini, for providing Adolf Hitler a panoramic view of the river.
After the Ponte Vecchio, the corridor passes over the loggiato of the church of Santa Felicita, which had a balcony with a thick railing, looking into the interior of the church, allowing the Grand Duke's family to follow services without mixing with the populace.
In its Uffizi section, the Vasari Corridor is used to exhibit the museum's famous collection of self-portraits.
The area closest to the Uffizi entrance was heavily damaged by a bombing, commissioned by the Italian mafia, on the night of May 27, 1993.
Benvenuto Cellini, a 16th century goldsmith, is honored with a bust on the bridge. By night, the wooden shutters of the shops look like suitcases and wooden chests, making it a very suggestive route to take for an evening passeggiata, or stroll.
BUYING GOLD ON PONTE VECCHIO
As you may know, Florence is known for its 18k gold… and at very reasonable prices! However, not all shops are priced the same, nor are all of them honest. There are two sections of Florence to buy gold in - a small one in Santa Croce and a much larger one on and near Ponte Vecchio. After two days’ worth of research on the stores in the areas, as well as looking at the price of 18k gold in the US (currently $44.33 an ounce in 2023), I settled on a small shop just two down from the left of Fratelli Piccini on Ponte Vecchio and purchased a bracelet and a necklace with antique Florentine coin replicas, in 18k gold, for less than 700 euros. Their prices are very reasonable and they are so kind/honest to work with!
If you have done any of your own research, you may have seen previous articles about the jewelry being overpriced. During COVID, they were hit so hard with lack of tourism that they had no choice but to lower their prices on their gold, making them the most reasonable overall. HOWEVER, if you are looking to buy gemstones in your jewelry, then it is not the country to buy them, as those markups are fairly severe.
TIP: Head to Ponte Vecchio around 4pm when most of the tour groups have left, giving you some breathing room to browse.
GETTING HERE & AROUND
Getting From the Train Station
We took a train from Rome and assumed, like all other places, it would be easy to get a taxi or Uber - we were wrong. Since there are a lot of low emission zones in Florence, taxis are limited with uber even moreso. When we got off the train, there was a two hour wait to go all of 15 minutes, so we decided to lug all of our suitcases through the busy streets to get to our hotel. This is NOT recommended.
Florence is a system of side streets with traffic flowing in one direction - cars, ambulances, buses, motorcycles, cyclists, and walkers are all sharing these streets, so they are quite congested. Our suggestion is to schedule a taxi or other car service, via the hotel, to avoid this hassle (in both directions).
Do You Need a Taxi to Get Around?
No. Florence isn’t that big and completely walkable. And, you really don’t want to take taxi anyway as you will miss all of the beauty around you!
A History Summary
59 BC - 285 AD - Florence was established by the Romans as a colony for veteran soldiers and was built in the style of an army camp. Situated along the Via Cassia, the main route between Rome and the north, and within the fertile valley of the Arno, the settlement quickly became an important commercial centre and in AD 285 became the capital of the Tuscia region.
4th - 8th century AD - The city experienced turbulent alternate periods of Ostrogoth and Byzantine rule, during which the city was fought over, helping to cause the population to fall to as low as 1,000 people. Peace returned under Lombard rule in the 6th century and Florence was, in turn, conquered by Charlemagne in 774, becoming part of the March of Tuscany centered on Lucca.
1000 AD - Margrave Hugo chose Florence as his residency instead of Lucca around 1000 AD, which was smart, considering the Golden Age of Florentine art began around this time.
1100 AD - Florence was a city-state at this time, flourishing in the areas of textiles, international trade, and banking (they developed the double entry bookkeeping system).
1325 - 1348 AD - At the height of demographic expansion around, the urban population was as great as 120,000, and the rural population around the city was closer to 300,000. The Black Death of 1348 reduced it by over half.
1378 AD- There were 25,000 wool workers who went on an attempted strike, led by wool combers, who rose up in a brief revolt against oligarchic rule in the Revolt of the Ciompi.
15th century AD - Florence was among the largest cities in Europe, with a population of 60,000, and was considered rich and economically successful. Cosimo de' Medici was the first Medici family member to control the city from behind the scenes. Although the city was technically a democracy of sorts, his power came from a vast patronage network along with his alliance to the new immigrants. The fact that the Medici were bankers to the pope also contributed to their ascendancy.
1469 AD - Cosimo was succeeded by his son Piero, who was succeeded by Cosimo's grandson, Lorenzo. Lorenzo was a great patron of the arts, commissioning works by Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Botticelli.
1492 - 1494 AD - Following Lorenzo de' Medici's death in 1492, he was succeeded by his son Piero II. When the French king Charles VIII invaded northern Italy, Piero II chose to resist his army, though quickly realized he had to give into the King’s demands. The Florentines revolted and exiled him in 1494.
1498 AD - Niccolò Machiavelli, whose prescriptions for Florence's regeneration under strong leadership, have often been seen as a legitimization of political expediency and even malpractice. Machiavelli was a political thinker, renowned for his political handbook The Prince, which is about ruling and exercising power. Commissioned by the Medici family, Machiavelli also wrote the Florentine Histories, the history of the city.
1512 AD - The Medici family retook control of Florence with the help of Spanish and Papal troops. They were led by two cousins, Giovanni and Giulio de' Medici, both of whom would later become Popes of the Catholic Church, (Leo X and Clement VII, respectively). Both were generous patrons of the arts, commissioning works like Michelangelo's Laurentian Library and Medici Chapel in Florence, to name just two.
1527 AD - Their reigns coincided with political upheaval in Italy and thus, Florentines drove out the Medici family for a second time and re-established a theocratic republic on 16 May 1527.
1530 - 1531 AD - The Medici family returned to power with the armies of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V and the blessings of Pope Clement VII (Giulio de' Medici). It marks not only the start of the monarchy, but the start of Mecidi rule for the next 200 years.
1737 AD - The extinction of the Medici dynasty and the accession in 1737 of Francis Stephen, led to Tuscany's temporary inclusion in the territories of the Austrian crown.
1801 - 1807 AD - Florence was the capital of the Napoleonic client state Kingdom of Etruria. The Bourbon-Parma were deposed in December 1807 when Tuscany was annexed by France.
1808 - 1814 AD - Florence was the prefecture of the French département of Arno from 1808 to the fall of Napoleon in 1814.
1861 AD - Tuscany became a region of the Kingdom of Italy.
1865 AD - Florence replaced Turin as Italy's capital and thus the modernization began - the old market in the Piazza del Mercato Vecchio and many medieval houses were pulled down and replaced by a more formal street plan with newer houses.
1943 - 1944 AD - During World War II, the city experienced a year-long German occupation, being part of the Italian Social Republic. Hitler declared it an open city on July 3, 1944 as troops of the British 8th Army closed in. Florence was liberated by New Zealand, South African, and British troops on August 4, 1944 alongside partisans from the Tuscan Committee of National Liberation (CTLN).
1966 AD - The Arno flooded parts of the center, damaging many art treasures. Around the city, there are tiny placards on the walls noting where the flood waters reached at their highest point.