Cruise Edition: Juneau, Alaska
In August of 2018, I took an Alaskan cruise to celebrate my 40th birthday. I chose Holland America as my cruise line, which took me to many ports, including Juneau (for a review of each port, click here).
Below is my experience however, not everyone may enjoy what I did. At the end of this post, I’ve included alternative options of things to do. Note, you can book these independent of your cruise line as they understand most are arriving for day trips.
Sailing to Port
Sailing through to Juneau was pretty spectacular, and I was fortunate to have pretty decent weather (no rain), as well as lucky enough to catch a couple of whale spouts along with some icebergs. The glacier runoff in the Gastineau Channel also made for some beautiful scenery!
Juneau’s port
The problem with most ports is how unauthentic they can be. Most of the stores are established by/partnered with the cruise ships, with them peddling shopping discounts on over-priced goods, prior to exiting the ship. It's why the excursions in places like these become so important - to actually see something beyond a strip of tourist traps that have nothing of real value to offer.
Instead of the aforementioned shopping in Juneau, I did my own sightseeing, wandering around the very small (and sleepy) state capital.
About Juneau
Juneau was originally inhabited by Tlingit Indians, who fished the salmon-rich waters of the Gastineau channel.
When gold was discovered in 1880 by Joe Juneau and Richard Harris, the area became settled.
It wasn’t until 1900 a city was formed and when it was also named the territorial capital (the actual seat of government was moved from Sitka to Juneau in 1906).
The first session of the territorial legislature was held in Juneau in 1913.
In 1916, the Alaska-Juneau gold mine was built (it operated until 1944) and gold was mined on Douglas Island until 1917, when a flood and cave-in caused the closure of the Treadwell mine.
In 1970, Juneau merged with Douglas (with which it is connected by a bridge erected in 1935), on the island across the channel, to form the largest city (in area) in the United States, covering 3,248 square miles.
The state’s oil boom precipitated a number of capital-improvement programs in the city, in the 1970s and early 1980s. Employment is kept steady due to government activities, fishing, forestry, and tourism.
Juneau is the seat of University of Alaska Southeast (1972) and home of the Alaska State Museum (1900).
Juneau contains the oldest Russian Orthodox church (built 1894) in southeastern Alaska.
The Mount Roberts Tramway, which ascends some 2,000 feet, provides riders with a picturesque view of the city and delivers them to a series of walkways and hiking trails.
TWO TIPS:
Definitely take the Mount Roberts Tramway if you have time - I didn't get to do it, but I hear it is worth it!
Heritage Coffee Co. & Cafe has some great local coffee brews and hot chocolate! Even it August, it is cold and rainy, which makes sipping on something hot, perfect.
My Excursion: TAKU GLACIER BY HELICOPTER AND AIR BOAT
About Taku Glacier
Taku Glacier is a tidewater glacier, located in Taku Inlet, just southeast of the city of Juneau. Recognized as the deepest and thickest alpine temperate glacier known in the world, the Taku Glacier is measured at 4,845 feet thick, 36 miles long, and is largely within the Tongass National Forest.
The glacier was originally named “Schultze Glacier” in 1883 and the “Foster Glacier” in 1890, but Taku, the name the local Tlingit natives had for the glacier, eventually stuck. It is nestled in the Coast Mountains and originates in the Juneau Icefield.
The glacier, which converges with the Taku River at Taku Inlet, has a history of advancing until it blocks the river, creating a lake, followed by a dramatic break of the ice dam. The most recent of these advances occurred in 1750. The glacier has advanced 4.82 miles since 1890, and as of June 29, 2012, is 0.78 miles from Taku Point. It is the only advancing glacier of the 20 major glaciers of the Juneau Icefield.
Since 1946, the glacier has been monitored by the Juneau Icefield Research Program, which has documented its rate of advance since 1988 at 56 ft. a year. The advance is due to a positive mass balance (more snow accumulates than snow and ice melt). Due to the positive mass balance and the fact that it was no longer losing mass to icebergs, Taku Glacier has become insensitive to the warming that has impacted all other glaciers of the ice field.
getting to taku glacier
My group was picked up by Northstar Helicopters (booked independent of the cruise ship as it's cheaper at $585 per person) and driven to Douglas Island, to get to the helipad. There, the group went through a safety briefing and were given snow pants and crampons to wear. We then loaded into the helicopter (by weight), and off we went!
NOTE: Coastal Helicopters partners with Northstar, so you may get either.
The flight was about 12 minutes long, and took us over the Gastineau Channel to the Taku Glacier.
When there, we landed onto a small helipad where our Air Boat captain was waiting to take us on a one-hour air boat ride on the Taku Inlet. We were given warm floatation coats, an option of sitting on top with the Captain or under a roof with windows (my choice), and off we went. (NOTE: If you're prone to motion sickness, this excursion isn't for you.)
About 30 minutes into the ride, we arrived at the more impressive side of the glacier to see one of the most awe-inspiring sights I've ever seen in nature.
We learned that the blue color of the ice is heavily compacted ice, and the dirt that's appearing is sediment run off from rain.
What was more interesting was the rage of meltwater coming from under the glacier.
When our hour-long tour was over, we headed back to dock to return the coats and hop back in the helicopter for our quick walk on the glacier.
You have no idea how slippery it is (even with crampons on) until you step foot on it. Not only that, but the crevasses are so deep that one slip and you're now part of the glacier.
The twelve-minute ride back to Douglas Island followed right after, and was a bit more scary, since weather and low visibility were rolling in. We did get to see a lot of mountain goats, hidden pools of water, and some glacier ice to distract us from the slight turbulence, though our Pilot Orin was amazing.
If you have the means, stomach, and appetite for adventure, you hands down, have to do this excursion, through this family-owned company. It encompasses everything Alaska is about, and allows you a much more intimate experience.
Juneau experiences to book
If you aren’t a fan of my above excursion or need options for this one as well, I’ve included a complete list of things to do that you can book straight away. Note that all companies understand you are on a cruise and that time is limited.
Why book independently? Because cruise lines mark up excursions for profit. Booking separately means lower cost and sometimes, better experiences.
Juneau Private 3 Hour Scenic Road Trip
Perhaps the most scenic US capital, Juneau—carved into a hillside, tumbling into the sea—is rife for road-tripping. On this private tour, you won’t have to worry about the driving, sitting back to enjoy views of Mendenhall Glacier, the Gastineau Channel, downtown, and more. You’ll likely also catch views of wildlife, including whales and seals, for a memorable, only-in-Alaska adventure.
Juneau Shore Excursion: Helicopter Tour and Guided Icefield Walk
When your ship anchors in Juneau port, get ready for a shore excursion pumped with adventure and incredible views. First, soar by helicopter over Juneau Icefield, and then land on Herbert Glacier to explore the remote landscape by foot. Learn about the surrounding Alaskan wilderness and capture memorable shots during your icefield walk. Cruise ship passengers please note that the shuttle will pick up one hour before listed flight time.
Juneau Wildlife Whale Watching & Mendenhall Glacier
The Mendenhall Glacier is one of Juneau’s most impressive natural wonders, stretching over 13 miles (21 kilometers). On this half-day tour, enjoy spectacular views of the glacier from the viewing platforms and walkways, and learn more about the mighty glacier at the Visitor Center. Then, set sail on a thrilling whale-watching cruise along the coast and look out for humpback whales, as well as other wildlife such as bald eagles and blue heron.
Mendenhall Glacier Ice Adventure Tour
Explore Mendenhall Glacier on this exclusive adventure tour into the Alaskan Wilderness. Your expert guides will lead you on a journey across Mendenhall Lake where you will paddle together with a small group past icebergs, giant waterfalls, and wildlife. On your way to the ice, you will be surrounded by breathtaking scenery of mountain peaks nestled in the Tongass National Forest. Upon landing the canoe at a remote beach site, your guides will safely lead you on an interpretive hike around the rocky surfaces located directly in front of the glacier. Here you will discover the magnificent ice features up close. Views of specific glacial features like Ice Caves and Moulins cannot be guaranteed due to the nature of the constantly moving ice. Every tour is unique and space is limited, making this Juneau’s most exciting and sought-after adventure tour.
Mendenhall Glacier Lake Canoe Tour
While most visitors only see the Mendenhall Glacier from crowded viewpoints, this tour takes adventurous travelers on a canoe trip to the base of the glacier for a completely different perspective of the majestic ice. With canoe lessons and a guide, the tour is open to first-time paddlers and the mellow water means you can take along a camera and capture the arctic cliffs, icebergs, and pristine blue ice.
Rainforest & Waterfalls Trek
Immerse yourself in the Alaskan wilderness on a trek through a vast temperate rainforest that includes views of waterfalls, wildlife, and glaciers. Your private guide takes you to off-the-beaten-path photo spots so you can capture authentic wilderness shots without other tourists getting in the way. Plus, throughout the hike, nature enthusiasts can learn about the unique ecosystem and its inhabitants.